Two faces, Two dials, Two identities
High performance escapement with
“triple pare-chute” protection
Limited edition of 10 pieces
by Ian Skellern
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of 2022’s shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 10, 2022.
The 15 regular categories for 2022 are: Ladies, Ladies Complication, Men’s, Men’s Complication, Iconic, Tourbillon, Chronograph, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Diver’s, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices between 3,500 and 10,000 Swiss francs), Challenge (watches with retail prices under 3,500 Swiss francs), and a new one called Mechanical Clock.
The main prize of the evening is the Aiguille d’Or, the best watch overall among the entrants, which will be voted in the room by a smaller jury chosen from the now nearly 500 Academy members.
Enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes as of today.
2022 GPHG Ladies category shortlist
The Ladies category contains watches aimed at women that comprise the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phase. These may potentially be adorned with a maximum of nine carats worth of gems.
The shortlisted watches are: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I, Chaumet Déferlante Secret Timepiece, Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic, and Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Ladies Complication category shortlist
The Ladies Complication category constitutes women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, tourbillon, digital or retrograde time display, world time, or dual time) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies and Mechanical Exception categories.
The shortlisted watches are: Andersen Genève Tempus Terrae Baguettes Aquamarines, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Thin RD#3, Chaumet Sous Le Soleil Creative Complication, Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon, Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, and Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Men’s category shortlist
The “Men’s” category comprises watches featuring the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases. These may potentially be adorned with a maximum of nine carats worth of gems.
The shortlisted watches are: Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Pf Micro Rotor Steel, Sylvain Pinaud Origine, Trilobe Une Folle Journée Black Edition, and Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Men’s Complication category shortlist
This category comprises watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., world time or dual time) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition, Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked, Bovet 1822 Virtuoso V, Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, and Singer Reimagined Barista.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Iconic category shortlist
The Iconic category is for watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years.
The shortlisted watches are: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked, Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch 43, TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf, and Zenith Defy Revival A3642.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Tourbillon category shortlist
In the Tourbillon category we find men’s mechanical watches with at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon, Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture, H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, Parmigiani Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon, and Theo Auffret Tourbillon Grand Sport.
Further reading:
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes
2022 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category shortlist
The Calendar and Astronomy category emphasizes mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g., date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum, DRT Tempus Fugit, H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue, Krayon Anywhere, and Sarpaneva Watches Nocturne.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Mechanical Exception category shortlist
The Mechanical Exception category comprises watches featuring a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement, or another original and/or exceptional horological concept.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition, Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary, Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon, Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1, and Ulysse Nardin Freak S.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Chronograph category shortlist
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Limited Edition, Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue, Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum, Louis Moinet Time to Race, MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo, and Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronographe Steel.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Diver’s category shortlist
The Diver’s category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity.
The shortlisted watches are: ArtyA Depth Gauge, Breitling Superocean Automatic 42, Doxa Army Limited Edition, Grand Seiko Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA5, TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver, and Tudor Pelagos FXD.
Further reading:
2022 GPHG Jewellery category shortlist
The Jewellery category includes watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gem setting. The watches are also distinguished by the choice of stones.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery, Chopard Animal World Peacock Watch, Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus, Piaget Extravagant Touch Watch, TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde, and Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose.
Further reading:
Jacob & Co Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette: A Universe On The Wrist
2022 GPHG Artistic Crafts category shortlist
Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.
The shortlisted watches are: Bovet 1822 Amadeo Amadeo Skeleton Tourbillon, Hermès Arceau Hermès Story, Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow, Van Cleef & Arpels Charms Coccinelle Féerique, and Voutilainen Ji-Ku.
2022 GPHG Petite Aiguille shortlist
Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category have a retail price between CHF 3,500 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Top Time Triumph, Gelfman Watch IN-16 Nixie, Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 9R66, Louis Erard x Massena Lab Le Régulateur Gold, Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition, and Zenith Defy Skyline.
Further reading:
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Manuel Emch x A Cast Of Guest Artists = Amazing (And Affordable) Watches
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time
2022 GPHG Challenge watches category shortlist
Watches entered into the Challenge category have a retail price equal to or under CHF 3,500. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
The shortlisted watches are: Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Type 1, Louis Erard Le Régulateur x seconde/seconde/, M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1 Red, Massena Lab Uni-Racer Safari, TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, and Tudor Ranger.
Further reading:
M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass – Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Manuel Emch x A Cast Of Guest Artists = Amazing (And Affordable) Watches
2022 GPHG Mechanical Clocks category shortlist
This year (2022) is the first in a long time, if not ever, that mechanical clocks have had their own category in the GPHG, and it is long-awaited and warmly welcomed. Last year (2021) in particular had sensational clocks entered that were well-deserving prizes.
This category is for mechanical time-measuring instruments like long-case and table clocks. Wristwatches are not allowed in this category.
The shortlisted watches are: BCHH Celestial Infinity, L’Epée 1839 Time Fast II, Matthias Naeschke NT 8 GT, Miki Eleta The Passage of Time, UTINAM Lebru x Silberstein KB2, and Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux.
Further reading:
Let us know your likes and dislikes in the comments below and look for our GPHG prediction round tables coming soon!
For more information, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2022/nominated-watches.
Thanks so much for the article Ian, every year the greatest pleasure. The best decision, which I am hugely pleased about, is the decision to include a special category for Mechanical Clocks. Thanks so much to the GPHG for this. All what´s missing for the future now are the pocket watches.
Ladies: Chaykin Harley Quinn, what a great watch, great a nice size.
Ladies Complication: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier, what a spectacular complication for both women and man.
Men’s: Sylvain Pinaud Origine, outstanding watch from a great talent.
Men’s Complication: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, beautiful watch, beautiful complication, again for both women and men.
Iconic: The Royal Oak is one of the greatest icons of all time. It will always win such a category.
Tourbillon: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. This is very special.
Calendar and Astronomy: Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum and Sarpaneva Watches Nocturne – cannot decide. Wonderful art.
Mechanical Exception: Bulgari Octo Finissimo, a new modern icon of the last 10 years and exceptional. Or: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux; but it is in the clocks category.
Chronograph: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo, amazing construction, amazing design.
Jewellery: Chopard Animal World Peacock Watch, beautiful stones and setting. A wow (red carpet) watch.
Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Ji-Ku. What a festival of crafts and art.
Petite Aiguille: Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition. The more I see it, the more I like it.
Challenge: Louis Erard Le Régulateur x seconde/seconde, a very cool collaboration. Great fun.
Mechanical Clocks: The overall best and nicest and most deserved winners – all. For me impossible to decide with a bias to Miki Eleta The Passage of Time, and Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux. They are out of this world creations.
Waiting for your discussion panel now, smile and all the best, Thomas
p.s.: not to forget: Special Jury Prize: please for a work to come and as a motivation: the website HORO.PEDIA
I love your Special Jury Prize suggestion, Thomas!
This list shows the worst of the conservative watch industry. Hideousness abound, carnival looking bling things, archaic tourbillons, stupid complications that’ll die if you wear them in the rain, boring always the same Seiko iterations, you name it. IMHO there’s only two decent watches on there, both by Tudor.
One would almost feel ashamed being a collector looking at this list. What are they thinking in Geneva.
Conservative Bas? The Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn,Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, Trilobe Une Folle Journée, Armin Strom Orbit, Singer Reimagined Barista, Theo Auffret Tourbillon Grand Sport, Arnold & Son Luna Magna, HYT Moon Runner, Sarpaneva Nocturne, Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1, Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, Bovet Récital 20 Astérium, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo, Doxa Army Limited Edition, and, M.A.D.1 Editions Red, to name just a few, are hardly ‘conservative’ are they? Yes the majority of the watches are conservative but that’s normal, because so are most people.
I’m with you in wanting even more interesting and less conservative watches, but I can’t complain that most, if good enough, will be selected.
Regards, Ian
I think the list is dull this year and I really see no point in the iconic category.
It is a great shame Sartory-Billard did not make the list. An independent watchmaker with enormous imagination in his dials and really striking watches.
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